If body parts make you squeamish turn away now, or skip this post altogether.
Let it be known, this operation requires two dolls, both will be irreparably damaged, so think about it before you do it. I practiced on two other dolls first, so the cost was 4 dolls and I also had another on standby so the toll was 5. I initially had thought and hoped it would be as simple as a Barbie head swap but it isn't (yes I am also guilty of transplanting Barbie doll heads, it started in the 90s when they introduced the flat footed articulated doll, cost= many gymnasts and equestrian dolls).
BFC ink dolls, the 18" versions anyway (I didn't get the small ones, I think they were shorter than Barbie) from my experience came in 2 body types.
First body type: The original series -I'll call it "meet the girls" and the second series which I think was called "my favorite things" were elasticized joints with each connection held in place by a cup or a plate, elastic and a notched circle.
This is from a dismantled original body. Including an attempt to get the cup/plate -that's the broken pink thing in the near centre of the photo - that particular one came out of a head; the grey notched circle just above it; some elastic, and a view inside the stomach of a doll where you can see some loose plates/cups that I couldn't get out.
To me there was no obvious way of removing the cup/plate without destroying the body part (cutting it open), so I used pliers and yanked several millions of swear able times until it crumbled. So if Maddie has severe neck pain when she wakes up you'll know why
The elastic is very sturdy. So a break like I did on Maddie (actually it was a body I had been experimenting on just in case I changed my mind in doing this to Maddie at all) was highly unlikely without it being assisted by scissors or genuine rot from getting the doll wet and not letting it dry out.
The elastic goes between each cup/plate and is held in place by the notched circle.
By doing this each piece of the body was made without seam lines and looked in my opinion more attractive than the later doll. It also meant the feel of the plastic had a softer texture, like the American Girl doll limbs and face.
There was a line around the knee place, but I tried to wedge it open in case this was a join but it didn't seem to be.
I do wonder due to this body type being difficult to construct that is why the later series were made differently.
Body type number 2: this is what I reckon is a ball jointed doll. These were on all the later 18" doll series, I think they were called, "100+ poses", "pen pals" and something to do with swimming "summer splashin" (the last were meant to be water friendly, I never tried it myself, but from my observation were the same as the 100+ poses body so will stick to my original thought that there were only 2 body types).
Each limb/body part is connected by a ball on a stick. And the body put together like 3D jigsaw, there are seams.
So it is less attractive, the plastic is also hard and smooth (except at the seam lines). I did not dismantle this body type other than removing the head, as I was hoping to keep it in tact as much as possible being the body Maddie was to end up with.
The neck join for the 100+ poses body (right in picture) was a ball into the neck itself, and a flat plug with an x that fitted into the neck hole of the head.
Original body on the left, 100+ poses on the right. You can see from this pic that the original neck is thicker.
And that was where the major destruction of the losing head began.
I cut the neck hole out of the losing head, and left this part over the head plug with the intent that it would fill the space on the head I wanted to use, and still have the mobility.
Trimmed to size, to hide the piece inside the gaining doll head.
The experimental doll, her inner head cap was a lot easier to remove than Maddie's but it still broke.
Hot glue was used to join the head to the neck join I had decided to use, and almost in shock but it actually worked. This is a later version of Addison (centre part) and if my diary dates are correct she's been successfully glued since October 31st. Nothing like some Frankenstein for Halloween.
This is Andy's right ankle, I've had varying successes with this method. Andy's ankle is still a little too loose for my liking so I might try it again.
This is the ankle of my experiment. I'm still working on her but her join was like almost hanging from her leg, whilst I had the hot glue gun out I gave it a shot. She still has the point your toe ability, the swivel your ankle has become a little stiff.
Maddie is still sleeping off her operation, but she is fine and the procedure appesrs to have worked for her as well (yay).
What does Maddie have to look forward to?
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI realize that this was written a looong time ago, and you might not even get this. I found this entry while searching if I could do the same thing with my 1st generation Kaitlin doll onto a newer articulated body. This was very informative, and I thank you for that. I was wondering if you thought it would be possible to just cut the elastic off at the neck (after much stretching to reach it), leaving the cup inside of the head. Then, could I just take off the head and put it onto the new body? You mentioned the neck holes were a bit different. Would there be a huge gap where the old head attached to the neck, or would it just go down further and make the neck look really short?
Anyway, thank you again for your very informative post. I'll appreciate any input you can give me on this. I don't want to totally ruin a doll that they don't even make anymore just to give her more articulation.
Hi Emily.
DeleteI didn't want the cup and the other plastic part rattling around inside her head. Maybe hot gluing it to the inside of her scalp would solve that. The gap in necks is not huge but
The head would not stay on if I just put it on the new body the opening was the new body skin thickness all the way round. I used the donors neckto fill the gap and help keep the mobility. I used a pen knife to cut the donor body neck
Maddie is still in my collection with her successful transplant. I don't play rough so she's still alright.
Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for the info on tightening the doll's joints! This is the only information I could find anywhere online regarding how these particular dolls are jointed.
ReplyDeleteI bought a used Yuko on ebay and have been working on getting her three loose joints fixed. I think I am going to try superglue on the ankle joint.
Espero logres usar un traductor para leer mi consulta. Gracias.
ReplyDeleteCuando un pie de la muñeca cuelga. Lo reparaste con pegamento?? Pero.. eso no compromete la capacidad de la artuculacion?
Como lograste reparar el pie colgante sin quedar totalmente pegado?